Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana (Bharatpur) National Park

A Birding Trip Report for Northern India, 20 February - 7 March 1999

by Mike Prince

Introduction

This trip was a combined birding and sightseeing visit to India. The first week was entirely spent birding, with two full days at Ranthambhor National Park and four at Keoladeo Ghana National Park (or Bharatpur). I then met my girlfriend in Agra for a non-birding week. This involved visiting the Taj Mahal and other sites in Agra, the abandoned sandstone city of Fatehpur Sikri, and Orchha, a village in Madya Pradesh famed for its many temples. After this we attended my girlfriend's cousins wedding, had a brief visit to Nepal, and spent several days on the family farm just outside Lucknow.

Although birds were the main focus of the first week I was keen to see Tigers at Ranthambhor, having missed them at Periyar in Kerala and Royal Chitwan National Park in Nepal the previous two years. However, it was not to be third time lucky! Sloth Bear and a brief glimpse of a Leopard were the main mammalian recompenses. Birding was excellent in the vicinity of Ranthambhor, including sightings of the endemic Painted Spurfowl, as well as Indian Courser, Painted Sandgrouse, Tickell's Blue Flycatcher and several larks and pipits. Keoladeo Ghana was a place I had long wanted to go to, and certainly lived up to expectations. Not only were the numbers of birds impressive but the variety, of waterbirds in particular, was incredible. The two adult Siberian Cranes were the undoubted highlight since the species' future looks very gloomy: last year a young bird was present as well but unfortunately would appear not to have survived. The days of flocks of over 100 are unlikely to ever be repeated, and it may not be long before the extinction of the wintering birds in India. Elsewhere in the world the bulk of the population winter in China (where BWP reports up to 2915 in 1993), with the only other known site, in Iran, barely reaching double figures in recent years. Other highlights of Keoladeo included the variety of raptors, especially aquila eagles. I had seen many before, having spent 18 months in Israel, but here they were far more a test of identification skills! Views were frequently of perched birds, or from above in flight, and the majority of birds had to be left unidentified. Spotted Eagle proved to be the commonest of the aquilas, but I also managed to positively identify a few Lesser Spotted, Steppe and Imperial Eagles. A very pale eagle caused me a few problems; I initially thought it to be a Tawny but eventually decided it was probably an adult fulvescens Spotted Eagle. (Note: I later queried the identification and removed the records of Lesser Spotted Eagle, following the split of this from Lesser Spotted as Indian Spotted Eagle, and the findings that it is more similar to Greater Spotted than Lesser Spotted.)

My flight was booked through Wildwings and accommodation and transport in India arranged beforehand through Cox & Kings in Delhi. Although more expensive, I was keen to make best use of the limited time available in India, and using Cox & Kings proved (relatively!) hassle-free. Beware, however, the habit of Cox & Kings confirming bookings before actually checking with the hotels! The day before I left for Bharatpur I received a message that my hotel had been changed from the Bharatpur Forest Lodge to a hotel a few miles away from the Park. Since I had specifically requested the Forest Lodge in order to be in the Park to make best use of my birding time, I was not best pleased! However, due to the helpful staff at the Forest Lodge, and the fact that they had a room available for the first two nights and then got a late cancellation, meant that I managed to stay there after all!

In Ranthambhor I stayed at the Hammir Resort along the road from Sawai Madhopur to the reserve. It was a very basic (e.g. cold showers or a bucket of hot water upon request) and not very impressive hotel arranged by Cox & Kings, but had good birding within walking distance.

For convenience I ate in the hotels: dinner was 100 Rs at the Hammir Resort for some good and plentiful home cooking, whereas it cost 267 Rs at the Bharatpur Forest Lodge for fairly ordinary food obviously tailored for a Western taste!

The weather was excellent for birding. Although chilly early morning and when on a jeep, it was hot during the day but not unbearable - I generally birded throughout the midday period.

Two books were pretty much essential during this trip:

Birds of the Indian Subcontinent, Grimmett, Inskipp & Inskipp - A refreshing change from having to use Ali & Ripley's Pictorial Guide, although somewhat heavy!
A Birdwatcher's Guide to India, Kazmierczak & Singh - Includes very good site notes for birding Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana, plus details of other nearby sites.

All birding was on my own in both Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana. Afterwards I met my girlfriend Nisha for our tour of Agra and Orchha.

Daily Log

20 February

Arrived in Delhi on BA 143 from London Heathrow at 1220 local time (having left at 2230 GMT the previous night). I was met on arrival by a Cox & Kings representative and given travel vouchers for the rest of my trip. We then transferred to the domestic terminal for the Jet Airways 9W 721 flight to Jaipur (1630 - 1710). Again met by car and then driven to Sawai Madhopur (approximately 3 hours away). Night at Hammir Resort.

A Black-shouldered Kite was seen at Delhi Airport, and a few Black Kites were seen in the Delhi area. Thereafter the journey produced plenty of Common Mynas, Little Swifts and Ring-necked Parakeets, plus a couple of Long-tailed Shrikes and the first Indian Peafowls of the trip.

21 February

Birding on foot along the road from the hotel early morning, then got a lift into Sawai Madhopur to arrange a 'gypsy' (a jeep) into Ranthambhor National Park. I could only book for 22 February afternoon and 23 February morning so spent the rest of the day birding on foot around Ranthambhor Fort and back to the entrance gate. Later I discovered that I could probably have joined a gypsy, or at least a 'canter' (an open-topped lorry-bus) at the entrance gate.

Red-breasted Flycatchers proved common as did Hume's Warblers, and several Large Cuckooshrikes were seen. My first tick came with a party of eight Large Grey Babblers in the acacia semi-desert beside the road. Other good birds on the early morning walk included Grey Francolin, Indian Bushlark, Bay-backed Shrike, Red Turtle Dove, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon and Dusky Crag Martin. Two Indian Gazelles or Chinkara were seen on the hillside beyond the acacias. At the entrance to the Jogi Mahal several Plum-headed Parakeets fed at very close range, and scope views of the lake from Ranthambhor Fort produced both species of Jacana, Cotton Teal and Painted Stork, plus Marsh Mugger crocodile! A speciality of the area, Brown Rock Chat, proved easy to find in the rambling fort itself although, in the heat of the day, small birds were not evident. A probable White-capped Bunting did fly over, but could not be relocated. The slow walk back to the entrance gate was very enjoyable, with Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, White-bellied Drongos and a Barred Buttonquail, which ran across a dried up stream. Near the gate itself were a Tickell's Thrush and the only Tickell's Blue Flycatcher of the trip. Towards dusk I scanned the cliffs for Eagle Owl and was rewarded with good views of one bird, first seen at about 5:30pm. I then flagged a jeep down to show them the owl, and hitch a lift back. The jeep occupants turned out to be Michaela Strachan and a BBC film crew filming tigers for The Really Wild Show! They were impressed by the Eagle Owl, and I by their tales of stunning views of tigers that afternoon!

22 February

In the morning I got a lift from Hammir Resort to the area of semi-desert and cultivation north-west of the road from Sawai Madhopur and was picked up at midday. This area was very productive for desert birds. Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks were common, and amongst many Paddyfield Pipits were a few Blyth's and one Tawny, all providing quite an identification challenge. Prinias were also difficult, although I eventually managed a singing Rufous-fronted as well as the commoner Jungle Prinias. Both Painted and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse were seen, and two Indian Coursers were the highlight of the morning.

I had hired a gypsy into Ranthambhor Park for the afternoon and eagerly looked forward to the prospect of seeing tigers and other mammals. Birding was possible from the gypsy as well, aided by the guides' knowledge of some of the regular species. At the entrance they pointed out a pair of roosting Collared Scops Owls. We also saw a few of the endemic Painted Spurfowls - it had been a little surprising that I hadn't seen any the day before since the entrance track is generally regarded as the best spot.

Views of deer were superb from the gypsy: it was possible to get very close to Chital (Spotted Deer), Sambar and Nilgai (Blue Bull), and we also saw two Chinkaras (Indian Gazelles). There were signs of tigers, but unfortunately no sightings. The other mammals seen were some Wild Boar and a fabulous Sloth Bear, which approached just yards from the gypsy. Apparently there was one tiger sighting in the afternoon, of one along the entrance track where I was walking alone at a similar time the day before!

23 February

Another tiger attempt in the morning, which again proved fruitless! However, as we were stopped beside a stream I caught a glimpse of a large buff-yellow mammal with black markings as it disappeared behind a line of bushes. It was almost certainly a Leopard (which are seen far less frequently than tigers). However, instead of waiting patiently where we would have probably seen it move out of cover again, the guide told the driver to get much closer. Thirty seconds of bumping around in a high-speed jeep later, we had difficult views through vegetation to the area where the leopard had been. Undoubtedly it had heard us coming and had long gone by then! Had it been a tiger it would probably have stayed in the area, but unfortunately leopards are far more secretive.

We returned to Hammir Resort where I was then taken by a Cox and Kings driver in an Ambassador car to Bharatpur (approximately a five hour drive). After my hassles booking in to the Forest Lodge I took a cycle rickshaw and spent the final couple of hours birding along the main road of Keoladeo Ghana National Park as far as Sapan Mari and then west from there. The numbers of waterbirds were spectacular, with a single jheel holding almost 1000 Purple Gallinules as well as numerous herons, egrets, storks, ibis, ducks and geese. The night was spent at Bharatpur Forest Lodge.

24 February

I spent the early morning birding the wooded areas of the Forest Nursery and Forest Lodge, before taking a rickshaw to Keoladeo Temple. In the ditch along the main road was a Yellow Bittern. At least three Spotted Eagles were seen, plus an excellent sub-adult White-tailed Eagle which flew low over Sapan Mari and landed in a tree. I left the rickshaw at the temple and spent the rest of the day birding on foot as far as Python Gate and back to the Forest Lodge along the main roads. My main target for the day was to see the two adult Siberian Cranes. They had apparently been spending their time either on Mansarovar or Chakwa Chakwi. Sure enough, I found them towards the south side of Mansarovar, where there were large numbers of waterbirds. Walking alongside the Ghana Canal I saw two Tickell's Thrushes, both fairly skulking individuals. I walked back along the same route, passed the 12 White Pelicans on Mansarovar and five Dalmation Pelicans near the Temple. As it neared dusk I waited at a regular spot, looking towards Nil Tal, for Dusky Eagle Owl. At about 6:15pm, having been calling out of sight for some time, two birds flew into a dead tree, where one remained calling.

25 February

After an early morning birding around the Forest Nursery, I took a rickshaw and was dropped near Python Gate. I then spent the rest of the day birding on foot via Lala Pyare Ka Kund, the brick path west from there, Mrig Tal, Ram band and finally back to Shanti Kutir. The heat of the day proved ideal for raptors and, amongst the many White-rumped and occasional Long-billed Vultures, aquila eagles were quite an identification challenge. The single sub-adult Steppe Eagle, and a second calendar year and a sub-adult Imperial were not difficult, but Spotted and Lesser Spotted were more of a problem. The day produced at least four Spotted in total, with no definite Lesser Spotted. Other raptors seen included both Booted and Bonelli's Eagles, plus Red-headed Vulture and Oriental Honey Buzzard, and a ring-tail Montagu's or Pallid Harrier. The dry areas of the park were good for some different species, including a pair of Rufous-tailed Larks perching in a tree, a Rufous-tailed (Isabelline) Shrike and a party of Large Grey Babblers. Noticeable at Mrig Tal especially were the large numbers of Citrine Wagtails - I recorded about 100 in the day, and didn't see a single Yellow in my time at Bharatpur! Finally an impressive Lesser Adjutant was at Mrig Tal.

26 February

Once again I birded the Forest Nursery area in the early morning, and once again was unsuccessful in looking for Marshall's Iora. However, an Indian Grey Hornbill was seen in flight just outside the Nursery entrance, and I was shown a superb roosting Large-tailed Nightjar by some local boys, who wouldn't even accept a tip! I then hired a cycle from the Forest Lodge and birded along the eastern border of the park to the dry area of Koladahar. Four Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks were seen in a grassy area along the south-eastern border, where I got involved with a local game of cricket! I then went a little further, to near the southernmost point, where I had very good views of a Sirkeer Malkoha. Here I managed to get a puncture, and so ended up with a long walk back along the same route!

27 February

I spent my final morning with another fruitless attempt for Marshall's Iora in the Forest Nursery area, then hired a cycle and birded the main road to Python Gate and the dry area south of Mansarovar and around Python Point. Species seen were generally similar to the previous days. In the dry area near Python Point I saw a few Streaked Weavers, although was a little surprised not to find any other weavers. Birding back along the same route I saw a very pale aquila eagle in flight, which then proceeded to land in a tree. It looked like a light-phase Tawny Eagle but I couldn't rule out a fulvescens variant Spotted Eagle. In the end I decided it was most probably an adult fulvescens Spotted, though it would have been useful to have seen the underwing to be more sure. Luckily I managed to get some reasonable photos.

28 February

Today was the first day of the non-birding half of my holiday. A car picked me at the Forest Lodge up in the morning and took me to Agra Cantt Railway Station (1 hour from Bharatpur) where I met my girlfriend from the train from Delhi. We checked in to the Trident Hotel and then used the car to go sightseeing. In Agra we went to the incredible Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Itimad-ud-daulah. Then we went to the abandoned sandstone city of Fatehpur Sikri, between Agra and Bharatpur. This was also an impressive place, and had a few good birds such as Brown Rock Chat and large numbers of Little Swifts. We spent the night at the very comfortable Trident Hotel.

1 March

From the Trident we took a car to Agra Cantt Railway Station where we caught the Shatabdi Express to Jhansi. Here we were met by another Cox and Kings car and travelled to Orchha, with a stop to take in Jhansi Fort on the way (where I saw Dusky Crag Martin and Brown Rock Chat). The afternoon was spent exploring the many temples of Orchha (where there were several more Dusky Crag Martins and Brown Rock Chats). Overnight we stayed at the run-down yet spectacular Hotel Sheesh Mahal.

2 March

The day was spent at Orchha, unsuccessfully avoiding the local children armed with water pistols containing coloured water as part of the annual Holi celebrations! In the late afternoon we were picked up by car and taken to Jhansi Railway Station where we caught the Sabarmati Express overnight to Lucknow.

3 March

The day involved various preparations for Nisha's cousins wedding (including the mehendi ceremony where the bride's hands and feet are painted with henna). I spent some time birding around the family farm in the afternoon.

4 March

An early morning walk around the farm in the morning was enjoyable in that I didn't really know what to expect; a Sirkeer Malkoha was one of the first birds I saw, and there were good numbers of pipits (Paddyfield, Olive-backed and Tree) in the fields. I also saw the only Yellow Wagtails of the trip, and an unidentified aquila eagle. During the day I visited a few places in Lucknow (including The Residency and Bara Imambara). The afternoon was spent preparing for the evening's wedding ceremony.

5 March

I spent the day on the farm. The same aquila eagle as yesterday was seen again, and again remained unidentified! Black-winged Kite, Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark, Pheasant-tailed Jacana and Rosy Pipit were some of the more interesting sightings.

6 March

We drove to Nepalgunj in Nepal for the wedding reception and spent the night in Nepalgunj.

7 March

After a morning drive back to Lucknow, I caught the 1540 Sahara Airlines S2 514 flight back to Delhi, and took the courtesy coach to the international terminal to await my departure on the 0030 BA flight back to London. I arrived in Heathrow at about 6am on Monday 8 March.

Systematic List

Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus
Daily at Ranthambhor (up to 17) and Keoladeo Ghana (up to 20)
Jungle Bush Quail Perdicula asiatica
Two at Ranthambhor on 22/2
Painted Spurfowl Galloperdix lunulata
Seven at Ranthambhor on 22/2
Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus
Common at Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana with up to 50 at the former site; one also at Lucknow on 4/3
Lesser Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna javanica
Several hundreds daily at Keoladeo Ghana with 30 also near Lucknow on 6/3
Greylag Goose Anser anser
Up to 80 daily at Keoladeo Ghana
Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus
Daily at Keoladeo Ghana with a max of 120 on 25/2
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
Seen on three occasions at Keoladeo Ghana, including 40 on 24/2
Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos
Up to four at Keoladeo Ghana
Cotton Pygmy-Goose Nettapus coromandelianus
Two at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and up to four at Keoladeo Ghana
Gadwall Anas strepera
Common at Keoladeo Ghana, including at least 500 on 27/2
Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope
Daily at Keoladeo Ghana with a max of 200 on 27/2
Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha
Small numbers (up to 15) daily at Keoladeo Ghana
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Very common at Keoladeo Ghana: at least 2000 on 27/2
Northern Pintail Anas acuta
Common at Keoladeo Ghana with at least 600 on 25/2
Garganey Anas querquedula
Up to 12 at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Teal Anas crecca
25 at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and common (at least 400 on 25/2) at Keoladeo Ghana
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina
Two seen on a river between Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana on 23/2 was the only sighting
Common Pochard Aythya ferina
Seen on three occasions at Keoladeo Ghana, including 120 on 25/2
Ferruginous Pochard Aythya nyroca
Small numbers (up to 20) daily at Keoladeo Ghana
Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
A single bird at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2
Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator
One seen briefly at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and three flushed there the following day
Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla
Two at Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2
Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos nanus
Two at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2
Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis
Fairly common, with two at Ranthambhor and up to three at Keoladeo Ghana
Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense
Common at both Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana (where four were seen on 25/2) with one also at Lucknow on 2/3
Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica
One at Lucknow on 4/3 was the only sighting
Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala
Seen or heard daily at Ranthambhor and one at Orchha on 2/3
Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris
A single bird seen in flight near the Forest Nursery at Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2
Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops
Common throughout, with eight at Keoladeo Ghana on both 25/2 and 26/2
Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis
Common
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
One at Ranthambhor on 21/2, daily sightings at Keoladeo Ghana with a max of eight on 24/2
White-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis
Common throughout, with 15 at Keoladeo Ghana on 24/2
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis
Daily sightings of up to seven at Keoladeo Ghana and singles on three occasions at Lucknow
Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis
Common throughout, including 150 at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2
Common Hawk Cuckoo Cuculus varius
One at Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2, then one or two daily at Lucknow
Sirkeer Malkoha Phaenicophaeus leschenaultii
One at Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2 and one at Lucknow on 4/3
Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis
One at Ranthambhor, then daily at Keoladeo Ghana (with 12 on 25/2) and a few singles elsewhere
Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri
Very common throughout, with at least 500 at Lucknow the highest daily count
Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala
A few daily at Ranthambhor, thereafter one at Orchha on 2/3
Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
Only seen at Lucknow where there were eight on 4/3
Little Swift Apus affinis
Common throughout, the max day total being 500 on 28/2
Collared Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena
One at Ranthambhor on 22/2, two more the following day and one at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2
Eurasian Eagle Owl Bubo bubo
One at dusk outside the entrance gate to Ranthambhor Park on 21/2
Dusky Eagle Owl Bubo coromandus
Two seen and heard at dusk at Keoladeo Ghana on 24/2, and heard on two other occasions
Spotted Owlet Athene brama
Ones or twos at Ranthambhor, Keoladeo Ghana and Orchha
Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus
One seen roosting during daylight in the Forest Nursery at Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2 and 27/2
Rock Pigeon Columba livia
Common
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
Common, 80 at Ranthambhor being the maximum recorded
Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis
Fairly common in small numbers, although none recorded at Keoladeo Ghana
Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica
One at Ranthambhor, two at Keoladeo Ghana and up to two at Lucknow
Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Common throughout
Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera
Two at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and one the following day
Siberian Crane Grus leucogeranus
The two wintering adults at Keoladeo Ghana were seen on 24/2 but were thought to have departed by 26/2
Sarus Crane Grus antigone
Four or five daily at Keoladeo Ghana were probably the same family party
Common Crane Grus grus
Seen on two occasions at Keoladeo Ghana, with 48 on 25/2
Brown Crake Amaurornis akool
One seen in the canal at Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2 and 27/2
White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
Quite common at Keoladeo Ghana, with one also at Lucknow
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio porphyrio
Very common (maximum of at least 1000) daily at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Common at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Coot Fulica atra
Very common at Keoladeo Ghana with about 5000 estimated on 26/2
Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus
32 seen in the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2
Painted Sandgrouse Pterocles indicus
Four seen in the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Up to four at Keoladeo Ghana
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
One at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and up to ten at Keoladeo Ghana
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
One at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and up to eight at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Up to five at Keoladeo Ghana
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
Two seen between Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana on 23/2, then up to four at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Small numbers (up to four) at Keoladeo Ghana
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Fairly common in small numbers, including 20 at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Common at Keoladeo Ghana, with 120 there on 24/2
Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos
One or two at Ranthambhor, and two between Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana on 23/2
Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii
Two seen at Keoladeo Ghana on 24/2
Ruff Philomachus pugnax
Very common at Keoladeo Ghana with at least 300 on 23/2
Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus
One at Ranthambhor on 21/2, up to 30 at Keoladeo Ghana and five at Lucknow on 5/3
Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus
Two at Ranthambhor on 21/2, up to 10 at Keoladeo Ghana
Eurasian Thick-knee Burhinus oedicnemus
Three at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Common throughout, with 40 on 28/2 the maximum daily total
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
Up to two at Keoladeo Ghana
Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malarbaricus
Ten in the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2
Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus
Common throughout
White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus
Quite common at Keoladeo Ghana: daily sightings of up to 25
Indian Courser Cursorius coromandelicus
Two seen in the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2
Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans
One immature seen in flight at Keoladeo Ghana on 27/2
River Tern Sterna aurantia
Up to two at Keoladeo Ghana
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus
One at Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2
Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhyncus
One or two most days at Keoladeo Ghana
Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus
Singles at Delhi Airport and Ranthambhor, and two at Lucknow on 5/3
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Not seen at Ranthambhor and just one at Keoladeo Ghana, but several around Agra and Lucknow
White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla
One sub-adult at Keoladeo Ghana on 24/2
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
Common in small numbers
White-rumped Vulture Gyps bengalensis
Common with up to 40 at both Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana
Long-billed Vulture Gyps indicus
Common with up to 60 at Ranthambhor, 20 at Keoladeo Ghana and 50 at Orchha
Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus
One at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2 and two the following day
Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus
One at Ranthambhor on 22/2
Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela
One between Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana on 23/2 and up to two at Keoladeo Ghana
Eurasian Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Two on several occasions at Keoladeo Ghana
Montagu's/Pallid Harrier Circus pygargus
One ringtail at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2 was most likely a first-winter Montagu's
Shikra Accipiter badius
Widespread and relatively common with a max of four at Ranthambhor on 21/2
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
Singles on two dates at Keoladeo Ghana and one near Lucknow on 6/3
Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga
The commonest aquila eagle. Up to five were seen at Keoladeo Ghana and one at Ranthambhor
Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis
One at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2 and two on 27/2
Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca
A first-winter and a sub-adult at Keoladeo Ghana on two dates
Bonelli's Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus
Juveniles seen on two occasions at Keoladeo Ghana
Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
Up to two dark phase birds at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
One at Keoladeo Ghana and singles at a few other locations
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Fairly common. Five at Ranthambhor, up to 12 daily at Keoladeo Ghana and six at Lucknow
Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster
Common (up to 50) at Keoladeo Ghana
Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger
Common throughout, including up to 100 at Ranthambhor and 150 at Keoladeo Ghana
Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis
Only seen at Keoladeo Ghana where there were about 30 on 27/2
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
Common (up to 50 sinensis type) at Keoladeo Ghana
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Common at Keoladeo Ghana (up to 100) and a few seen at various other localities
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Up to 150 at Keoladeo Ghana
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Common at Keoladeo Ghana with up to 50 there, and one at Lucknow on 5/3
Great Egret Casmerodius albus
Fairly common, particularly at Keoladeo Ghana where there were daily sightings of up to 50
Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia
Very common at Keoladeo Ghana with at least 400 on 27/2 and several seen elsewhere, including 100 at Lucknow on 5/3
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Fairly common and widespread, although just one at Keoladeo Ghana.
Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii
Common and widespread
Striated Heron Butorides striatus
One or two seen at Keoladeo Ghana
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Up to 80 at Keoladeo Ghana, mostly in a roost near Keoladeo Temple
Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis
A single in the ditch beside the main track at Keoladeo Ghana on 24/2
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Common at Keoladeo Ghana with up to 200
Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus
One at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and daily sightings (max of 80) at Keoladeo Ghana
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
Common (up to 200) at Keoladeo Ghana
Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus
12 at Keoladeo Ghana on 24/2 and five there on 27/2
Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus
Five at Keoladeo Ghana on 24/2 and one on 26/2
Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala
Very common at Keoladeo Ghana with at least 1000 at their nest colony; small numbers seen elsewhere
Black Stork Ciconia nigra
Two in flight over Ranthambhor on 21/2
Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans
Small numbers (up to ten) daily at Keoladeo Ghana
Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus
One or two seen most days at Keoladeo Ghana
Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus
Up to three daily at Keoladeo Ghana
Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus
One at Keoladeo Ghana was seen on 25/2 at Mrig Tal
Rufous-tailed Shrike Lanius isabellinus
Singles at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2 and 26/2
Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus
Up to three at Ranthambhor, two between Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana and singles on two occasions at Keoladeo Ghana
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach
A few seen at various sites, including five at Ranthambhor
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridonialis
Up to five at Ranthambhor and 15 seen between there and Keoladeo Ghana on 23/2
Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda
Common and widespread, the max being 25 at Ranthambhor on 21/2
House Crow Corvus splendens
Common
Jungle Crow Corvus levaillantii
Small numbers seen regularly
Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei
Six at Ranthambhor on 21/2
Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus
Small numbers at both Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana
White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola
Three at Ranthambhor and two at Keoladeo Ghana
Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus
Common throughout
Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus
Two at Keoladeo Ghana in the Forest Nursery on 27/2
White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens
Six seen at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and two there the following day
Common Iora Aegithina tiphia
Two at Ranthambhor on 21/2 were the only sighting
Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus
A few observed at several sites
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
One seen in the village at the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2
Tickell's Thrush Turdus unicolor
One near the entrance gate of Ranthambhor on 21/2 and up to two seen at Keoladeo Ghana on three (always brief) occasions
Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva
Fairly common, the maximum observed being seven at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and eight at Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2
Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae
One near the entrance gate of Ranthambhor on 21/2
Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis
Six at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and up to four at Keoladeo Ghana
Bluethroat Luscinia svecica
Two daily at Keoladeo Ghana and three at Lucknow on 5/3
Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis
Common and widespread
White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus
One at Ranthambhor on 21/2
Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata
Common, 25 at Ranthambhor on 22/2 being the maximum noted
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
Up to three at various sites
Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata
Two at Ranthambhor on 22/2 and two at Lucknow on 4/3
Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata
Seen at several sites including 40 at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2
Brown Rock Chat Cercomela fusca
Seen at Ranthambhor, Fatehpur Sikri, Jhansi Fort, and up to 15 at Orchha
Brahminy Starling Sturnus pagodarum
Fairly common, peaks being 60 at Ranthambhor and 50 at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris
One at Lucknow on 5/3
Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra
Two at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and then several at Keoladeo Ghana and a few around Lucknow
Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
Very common and widespread
Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus
Up to 12 at Ranthambhor and just one at Keoladeo Ghana, thereafter several further north and very common around Agra
Great Tit Parus major
Up to eight at Ranthambhor
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Two at Keoladeo Ghana on 27/2
Plain Martin Riparia paludicola
Eight at Ranthambhor and up to six at Keoladeo Ghana
Dusky Crag Martin Hirundo concolor
40 at Ranthambhor, two at Jhansi and up to 20 at Orchha
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Very common at Keoladeo Ghana, few elsewhere
Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii
Two at Keoladeo Ghana on two occasions
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
Two at Lucknow on 4/3
Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus
Up to four at Lucknow
White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis
Up to ten seen daily at Keoladeo Ghana
Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer
Common and widespread
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Up to 15 at Lucknow
Rufous-fronted Prinia Prinia buchanani
Two singing birds in the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2
Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis
One at Keoladeo Ghana and two at Lucknow
Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica
Up to 15 at Ranthambhor
Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis
Three at Ranthambhor on 21/2
Plain Prinia Prinia inornata
Two at Ranthambhor, Keoladeo Ghana and Orchha, and ten at Lucknow
Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus
One near Lucknow on 6/3
Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum
Seen daily (up to eight) at Keoladeo Ghana and one near Lucknow on 6/3
Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus
Up to six at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius
Small numbers seen throughout
Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
One at Ranthambhor, up to 30 at Keoladeo Ghana and two at Lucknow on 4/3
Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus
Three at Keoladeo Ghana on 24/2 and one there on 26/2
Hume's Warbler Syrmaticus humiae
Fairly common with up to eight at Ranthambhor, 25 at Keoladeo Ghana and singles elsewhere
Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides
Four at Ranthambhor on 21/2 and singles at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus
Seven at Ranthambhor on 22/2, then singles at Keoladeo Ghana and Orchha
Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi
Seen at Ranthambhor (up to eight) and in the dry areas of Keoladeo Ghana where there were 50 on 26/2
Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus
Common and widespread
Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca
One at Ranthambhor, up to 50 at Keoladeo Ghana and one at Lucknow
Indian Lark Mirafra erythroptera
Up to five at Ranthambhor, near the road from Sawai Madhopur and in the semi-desert area nearby
Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix grisea
80 in the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2, four at the southernmost point of Keoladeo Ghana, and a few at Lucknow
Rufous-tailed Lark Ammomanes phoenicurus
Two at Lala Pyare Ka Kund, Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2
Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla
Four in the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Two at Koladahar, Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2
Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula
Two at Koladahar, Keoladeo Ghana on 26/2 and up to 20 at Lucknow
Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica
Small numbers seen at various localities
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Common
Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis
Seen at various sites including 50 at Keoladeo Ghana and 40 at Lucknow
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Singles at a few sites
White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis
Up to two seen at Keoladeo Ghana
Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola
Common with up to 100 seen daily at Keoladeo Ghana
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
Four at Lucknow on 4/3 were the only sighting
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
Up to four at Ranthambhor, one at Keoladeo Ghana and two at Orchha
Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus
Common (at least 70) in the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2. Also four at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2 and up to 10 at Lucknow
Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris
One was seen in the Ranthambhor semi-desert area on 22/2
Blyth's Pipit Anthus godlewskii
About 10 were seen with other pipits in the semi-desert area of Ranthambhor on 22/2
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis
100 were seen in alfalfa fields at Lucknow on 5/3
Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni
Fairly common in small numbers at Ranthambhor, Keoladeo Ghana and Lucknow, where the maximum count of 10 was recorded
Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus
One at Lucknow on 5/3
Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar
At least four seen near Python Point, Keoladeo Ghana on 27/2
White-throated Munia Lonchura malabarica
Single sightings at each of Ranthambhor, Keoladeo Ghana, Orchha and Lucknow

Other Bird Notes

[Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila (pomarina) hastata]
Although at the time I believed that I had definite sightings of Lesser Spotted Eagle with one at Keoladeo Ghana on 25/2 and two there on 27/2, I now no longer consider the identification of these to be confirmed and hence remove these records. This follows the split of Indian Spotted Eagle A. hastata from Lesser Spotted Eagle A. pomarina and the realisation that it is more similar to Greater Spotted A. clanga than Lesser Spotted.
[White-capped Bunting Emberiza stewarti]
A bunting, probably of this species, was seen twice in flight at Ranthambhor Fort on 21/2

Other Wildlife

Wild Boar Sus scrofa
Seen at Ranthambhor both days and on one occasion at Keoladeo Ghana
Five-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennantii
Very common throughout
Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta
Common at Keoladeo Ghana and seen elsewhere in the north
Sambar Cervus unicolor
Fairly common at Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana
Nilgai (Blue Bull) Boselaphus tragocamelus
Fairly common at Ranthambhor and Keoladeo Ghana
Golden Jackal Canis aureus
Common at Keoladeo Ghana
Chinkara (Indian Gazelle) Gazella bennettii
Two just south of the Sawai Madhopur road near Ranthambhor on 21/2 and two in Ranthambhor Park on 22/2
Chital (Spotted Deer) Axis axis
Common at Ranthambhor; fairly common at Keoladeo Ghana
Common Langur Semnopithecus entellus
Very common at Ranthambhor
Indian Grey (Common Indian) Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii
Three seen at Keoladeo Ghana, one at Orchha
Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii
One at Ranthambhor on 23/2 and one seen beside the road from Nepalgunj to Lucknow on 7/3
Sloth Bear Ursus ursinus
One at Ranthambhor from the gypsy in the late afternoon of 22/2 gave superb close views as it walked along a stone wall before moving off into the vegetation
Marsh Mugger
Two seen at the lake at Ranthambhor on 21/2
Indian Rock Python
One in a tree near Keoladeo Temple on 24/2

Other Wildlife Notes

[Leopard Panthera pardus]
One large mammal seen briefly at Ranthambhor from the gypsy on the morning of 23/2 was almost certainly a Leopard, although couldn't be seen when we drove closer. Had we waited where we first caught a glimpse of it we undoubtedly would have seen it move out of its relatively flimsy cover, but the Indian guide insisted on taking the gypsy at breakneck speed until we were within ten metres of where it had been. Not surprisingly, although there was lots of commotion amongst the Common Langurs nearby, the Leopard was nowhere to be seen!
[Tiger Panthera tigris]
Although not seen personally, tigers were generally seen daily by at least one of the gypsies at Ranthambhor. At the entrance gate at dusk on 21/2 I met a BBC film crew, including Michaela Strachan, who had been successfully filming tigers for The Really Wild Show. I showed them an Eagle Owl through my scope, but unfortunately was not repaid with any tiger sightings! On 22/2, when I took a gypsy trip into the Park, one was seen from the canter along the entrance road, an area where I had been walking alone at a similar time the day before!
[Turtle sp]
At least two different species were seen at Keoladeo Ghana. One small species was seen daily and a larger, smooth-shelled, turtle was seen on 27/2.