Introduction

This report describes a two-week visit to Sri Lanka in late winter/early spring 2001. We chose our own itinerary designed to give a good mixture of birding and general sightseeing. Sri Lanka has 26 endemic bird species (if you include three commonly recognised taxonomic splits), including the endangered Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush and Green-billed Coucal, as well as being an important wintering area for a number of Indian species such as Indian Pitta and Kashmir Flycatcher. There are some fine wildlife viewing sites, which offer the chance of seeing the endemic subspecies of Asian Elephant as well as other mammals and birdlife.

On the non-birding front Sri Lanka has some excellent archaeological sites such as the ancient cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, plenty of cultural activities including the Kandyan dances, plus some superb beaches. The island is a suitable size to cover adequately in two weeks (the out-of-bounds north containing little of general tourist interest anyway), the people are friendly, English is widely spoken and food and accommodation are both good and relatively cheap - overall Sri Lanka makes an ideal holiday destination.

The aim was to visit the key birding sites, particularly for the endemics, and main other sites of general interest. We had various birding trip reports and tour itineraries, and from these compiled a draft itinerary for our trip that we then sent to some local tour operators for comment and quotes. Eventually we opted for a tour through Hawk Travels, who had been recommended to us by a friend in Sri Lanka. For a pure birding trip Baur would have been better but Hawk were probably better for the non-birding sites. Since I was happy to be without a birding guide for the entire trip (relying on the generally very good site details given in some of the trip reports), and since Baurs were more expensive for our itinerary, we decided on Hawk. Contact details for Hawk and Baur, as well as other relevant contacts, are at the end of this report (see the Contacts section). The trip reports we used are listed in the References section.

The total cost for the tour was $626 each. This included half board at generally up-market hotels, full board at Martin's Bungalow and transport in an air-conditioned car with driver. Entrance fees, permits, lunch expenses, drinks, tips and jeep hire were not included, and came to approximately £150 each. We booked flights on Gulf Air travelling via Abu Dhabi at a cost of £440. The total cost for the two-week holiday was therefore about £1,000 each. This could be reduced considerably by choosing from a wide range of available budget accommodation, or by travelling in a larger group.

We were very pleased with the trip, which proved successful on both birding and non-birding fronts. More effort was required for the difficult endemics, such as the Whistling Thrush, and this could have been done without much change in the overall itinerary. Some particularly manic birders do manage to clean up on the endemics in just over a week, but two weeks is recommended as more suitable for a very good chance at all the endemics and to give time to visit some additional sites (birding or sightseeing).

1100 Gulf Air flight from London to Colombo, via Abu Dhabi.

Arrived in Colombo 0645 and met by Hawk Travels. Transferred to a friend's in Colombo and then left at 1300 for the five-hour drive to Anuradhapura. Stopped to see the 5th century 12m high standing Buddha at Aukana. Stayed at Hotel Palm Garden Village, Anuradhapura. Most notable birds included Indian Swiftlets and a Green Imperial Pigeon at Aukana, with several waterbirds at the nearby tank.

Sightseeing around Anuradhapura for the morning, then briefly at Mihintale and Ritigala, before driving to Dambulla. Stayed at Hotel Kandalama, Dambulla. My first lifer of the trip was Yellow-billed Babbler in the hotel grounds. We bought Cultural Triangle tickets in Anuradhapura (approximately $35 each): these allow free entry to many of the ancient sites and are definitely worth buying if you plan to visit three or more places. There is plenty of scrub vegetation around the Buddhist monuments and here we saw Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Crested Tree Swift, Ashy Woodswallow and had a brief glimpse of a Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill. Ritigala is likely to prove good for birds if you can avoid the heat of the day. We didn't, but still saw Brown-capped Babbler, the endemic subspecies (or species depending on which taxonomy you follow) of Black-crested Bulbul and excellent views of an adult Black Eagle hunting over the forest.

We arrived at the Hotel Kandalama in the late afternoon and checked into our room in the Sigiriya wing. This we had been recommended by a friend (and room 507 in particular!) and the views across the lake to Sigiriya were amazing. 500 Asian Openbills were seen in flight at dusk, with many other species of waterbirds present.

After an early morning's birding at Kandalama (seeing Sri Lanka Junglefowl, Barred Buttonquail, Forest Wagtail, Tawny-bellied Babbler and Long-billed Sunbird) we visited the magnificent ancient city of Polonnaruwa for the morning, and went to Sigiriya in the afternoon. We started climbing Sigiriya at about 1600 - the heat before this would have made it unbearable! A pair of the 'Shaheen' race of Peregrine was seen well here. Stayed again at Kandalama, where a Spot-billed Pelican was on the lake in the evening.

Another early morning at Kandalama produced some additional species including Pintail Snipe and Orange-breasted Green Pigeon. We then went to Dambulla Rock Temples (where an adult Rufous-bellied Eagle was a very welcome sighting) before driving to Matale for lunch and visiting a spice garden. Transferred to our hotel (Earl's Regency) just outside Kandy and in the evening went back in to Kandy to see a cultural show and the Temple of the Tooth Relic.

Went to Pinnewela Elephant Orphanage to be there for the 0915 feeding and 1000 bathing. Then took a scenic drive through innumerable tea estates (stopping at one for a tour and some tea!) to Nuwara Eliya. Briefly did a tour of the town, then spent a couple of hours birding in Victoria Park. This proved excellent, with several Pied Thrushes, Indian Blue Robin, Kashmir Flycatcher, Forest Wagtail and a stunning Indian Pitta. We stayed at the Tea Factory Hotel, 14km east of Nuwara Eliya. This was a working tea factory and has recently been converted very sympathetically into an up-market hotel.

Left early (although not early enough for the Whistling Thrush!) to visit Horton Plains. Stopped at the Arrenga Pool seeing the impressive endemic kinnisii subspecies of Blackbird. I met Gehan de Silva Wijeyeratne (co-author of A Birdwatcher's Guide to Sri Lanka [4]) here and spent some time talking to him. When I bumped into him again later he mentioned that a Sri Lanka Bush Warbler showed at the pool shortly after I had left! Moving on to Horton Plains we did the very enjoyable 11km walk through the somewhat Jurassic Park-like landscape of elfin forest to Worlds End and Bakers Falls. The view from Little Worlds End was stunning, but when we reached Worlds End itself we were just confronted with an eerie wall of fog. Paddyfield Pipits, Pied Bushcats and Fan-tailed Warblers were common, and we also saw Pacific Swallow, Yellow-eared Bulbuls, Indian Scimitar Babbler and two Munias in flight which may well have been the endemic Black-throated Munia but unfortunately we could not get better views.

We returned to the Tea Factory, stopping for a brief walk in Galways Forest but could not locate any Bush Warblers. Relaxed for the afternoon.

Birding in Hakgala Botanical Gardens which proved disappointing. Emerald Dove was the only new species of any note. We then drove to the Surrey Tea Estate for a brief stop. Despite the help of the estate manager's son the Brown Wood Owls were nowhere to be seen, and looking in the guest book later it would seem that no-one at all recently has been lucky. We made the mistake of accepting the offer of some tea here, since the estate manager's wife insisted on us paying an extortionate 500 Rupees. Having called in unannounced we didn't feel we could really refuse!

We then continued on to Ella, pausing at the spectacular Rawana Ella falls, and checked in to the Ella Adventure Park, a tasteful 'jungle lodge' built in the forest. In the afternoon we had a birding walk in the forest around Ella with one of the guides (Nandana) who was very knowledgeable with birds and other wildlife. Here we saw Pompadour Green Pigeon, Blue-winged Leafbird and had very good views of a Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot. We also saw a Jackal and a Muntjac here.

We left Ella early for the long drive (about six hours) to Sinharaja, arriving at the Forest department in Kudawa at about 1300. This is where we split up, Nisha continuing on another four hours to Colombo and I met a guide (Thandula), who accompanied me for most of the next two days, and we walked up to Martin's bungalow. Spent the afternoon birding the forest trail as far as the research station and back to Martin's Bungalow where I stayed.

Sinharaja is an absolute must on a birding trip to Sri Lanka. Only two (the Whistling Thrush and Bush Warbler) of the endemic bird species have not been recorded here, and much of the flora is also endemic. The forest is the largest remaining area of primary rainforest in Sri Lanka, although interestingly most of the birding is done in secondary forest. One feeding flock that we came across beside the main track contained several Orange-billed Babblers, Ashy-headed Laughing Thrushes, Red-faced Malkohas, Layard's Parakeet, White-faced Starlings, and Crested Drongo (endemic race of Greater Racquet-tailed), as well as Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Indian Scimitar Babbler, Dark-fronted Babbler and Yellow-browed Bulbul. You had to be quick though, because several species moved through before I had had time to fully appreciate the previous tick! Other highlights of the afternoon included Sri Lanka Junglefowl, Large-billed Leaf Warbler, Brown-breasted Flycatcher, Lesser Yellownape, Red-backed Woodpecker, Yellow-fronted Barbet, Black-crested Bulbul, Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot, Sri Lanka Woodpigeon and Emerald Dove.

Whole day spent birding in Sinharaja. Both morning and afternoon walked to near the research station, with a period during the early afternoon spent birding from the information centre and generally sheltering from the torrential rain! New species as compared with the previous day included Spot-winged Thrush, incredible views of Scaly Thrush, Sri Lanka Blue Magpie, Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, Sri Lanka Myna, Malabar Trogon, Legge's Flowerpecker, Black-naped Monarch and Brown-backed Needletail. At dusk we successfully taped and then had excellent torch-lit views of a female Sri Lanka Frogmouth just inside the barrier at the entrance to the National Park. Luckily Thandula was able to borrow a cassette player since I had not brought one and it is almost essential if one is to have a chance of seeing or hearing the more elusive species, as well as helping to attract the feeding flocks. Two useful cassette recordings of Sri Lankan birds are listed in the References section.

Birded the forests around Kudawa for the morning in an attempt to see Sri Lanka Spurfowl. Despite hearing them on several occasions, and using the tape, we were never able to get close enough to see any. Towards the end of the morning though we struck lucky with a Green-billed Coucal responding to its call on the tape. Some time later (having blazed a new trail through the forest!) we were rewarded with views of the bird, and heard another calling nearby. I did pay the price for going off the main tracks following the heavy rains from the day before though, in the form of several leech bites! During the course of the morning I must have removed a couple of hundred from my boots before they managed to bite, but about 15 managed to evade me and successfully gorged themselves on my blood. Although not painful, or likely to cause any longer-term problems, they were very annoying, as was the fact that my ankles continued to bleed for most of the day!

I met Nisha at the Forest department at midday. Then we drove to Yala, taking the road that borders the south side of Uda Walawe National Park. We managed to see three Elephants inside the park and had excellent views of a pair of Malabar Pied Hornbills perched in a dead tree just inside the park perimeter fence. Between Tissa and Yala several waders were seen, and these included Lesser Sand Plover. We stayed for the first of two nights at Yala Safari Beach Hotel, conveniently situated on the beach near the park entrance.

Took a jeep safari into Yala National Park for the morning (approximately 0700-1100). I was much more impressed with this than I expected to be. Although there was only one place where we were allowed to get out of the jeep we still saw plenty of birds and many of these were approachable for photography. The more interesting species included Lesser Adjutant, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Great Stone Plover, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Rose-coloured Starling and Blue-faced Malkoha. The rarest bird was certainly the Black-capped Kingfisher seen fishing over one of the pools, an annual winter vagrant to Sri Lanka. We were also lucky with mammals for, as well as the predictable Water Buffalo, Wild Boar and Spotted Deer, we also saw four Elephants, including a magnificent tusker just metres from the jeep. Several crocodiles were seen, and one of these was in the slow process of eating a large Spotted Deer stag!

After relaxing for the afternoon at the hotel, and seeing Pallid Harrier and White-bellied Sea Eagle nearby, we headed to Kataragama for the evening to explore the religious complex there. The journey back along the road to Yala Safari Beach Hotel at night was very good for nightjars with four seen; one perched on the track to the hotel was possibly Jerdon's, although I couldn't quite be sure of the identification.

Spent some time birding in the Bundala area. Unfortunately I was prevented getting to Bundala Lewaya due to a salt workers strike. Despite talking to the staff at the factory I was unable to convince them to let me in to view the salt pans. The other areas in the vicinity were disappointing in terms of numbers of birds present. A stop later near Hambantota was better, and this produced Crested and Lesser Crested Terns as well as Pacific Golden Plovers.

We then drove to Unawatuna, seeing a Chestnut-winged Cuckoo beside the road en route, and spent the afternoon relaxing on the beach. Stayed at the Unawatuna Beach Resort.

After some more time in Unawatuna, drove to Colombo stopping to look around Galle and to have lunch in Bentota. Afternoon and evening spent in Colombo.

Departed for London on 0745 Gulf Air flight via Muscat and arrived in Heathrow at 1800.

With hindsight there were a few, albeit minor, amendments we would have made to our itinerary. These included:

• Drive to Kandalama on the first day, staying there for an extra night and using it as a base for all the sites visited in the North (and hence not staying in Anuradhapura).
• Time permitting, visit some additional ancient sites such as Ridi Vihara and Nalanda.
• Stay at a hotel in the middle of Kandy, thus allowing more time to explore Kandy itself and hopefully allowing time to do some birding in Udawattekele forest as well.
• The Tea Factory some 14km outside Nuwara Eliya was a great place to stay, but a bit inconvenient for the excursions we did. With limited time it would therefore have been better to stay at a hotel in Nuwara Eliya itself.
• An afternoon was spent relaxing at the Tea Factory - this could have been used to attempt the Hakgala waterfall sites for Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush having failed at Horton Plains in the morning.
• Lots of the hotels catered for western tastes so much that their half-board dinner was a three-course western meal with no Sri Lankan alternative. We found this very disappointing, since experiencing the local food was expected to one of the trip highlights! The Palm Garden Village, Earl's Regency, Ella Adventure Park, Yala Safari Beach and Unawatuna Beach Resort were all guilty of this, whereas the buffets (providing Sri Lankan food as well as various alternatives) at Kandalama and the Tea Factory were superb.

The names and order largely follow Harrison [2], including treating Sri Lanka Small Barbet, Black-crested Bulbul and Black-throated Munia as endemic subspecies rather than separate species.

'E' indicates an endemic species, '*' indicates a tick for MGP. Some records of note but not personally seen or identified are shown with the species name in brackets in the list below.

1. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

Two at Anuradhapura on 27/03, eight at Polonnaruwa on 28/03, one between Tissa and Yala on 04/04 and 10 at Yala on 05/04.

2. Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis

Singles at Kandalama on 28/03 and Kandy on 29/03, 60 at Yala on 05/04 with 30 at Bundala the next day.

3. Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis

A few hundred at Kandalama, small numbers on the lake at Kandy and several, although not counted, at Yala.

4. Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger

Similar to Indian Cormorant with good numbers at Kandalama and Yala, and a few seen at other sites.

5. Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster

One at Kandalama on 27/03 and 28/03, two between Tissa and Yala on 04/04 and about 30 at Yala on 05/04.

6. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Six at Anuradhapura on 27/03, 15 at Kandalama the same day with several the following day, and also seen at Yala and Bundala.

7. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

One seen between Colombo and Anuradhapura on 26/03, one between Anuradhapura and Ritigala on 27/03. Two each at Yala on 05/04 and Bundala on 06/04.

8. Great White Egret Casmerodius albus

Common. 10 seen at Anuradhapura on 27/03 with 10 at Kandalama also on 27/03 and a few the next day. Hundreds at Yala on 05/04 and several at Bundala on 06/04.

9. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia

Common, with several at Kandalama, Anuradhapura and hundreds at Yala on 05/04.

10. Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Seen at several sites with several at Kandalama and hundreds at Yala.

11. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

Common throughout, with large numbers especially in wetland areas of the north.

12. Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii

Common almost everywhere.

13. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

One seen in flight at dawn at Yala on 05/04.

14. Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala

20 between Colombo and Anuradhapura on 26/03, four at Ritigala on 27/03, 200 at Yala on 05/04 and 60 at Bundala on 06/04.

15. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans

About 500 seen at Kandalama on 27/03, mostly in flight over the lake at dusk. 100 there the next day, 40 between Tissa and Yala on 04/04, 150 at Yala on 05/04 and 30 at Bundala on 06/04.

16. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus

One between Kandalama and Polonnaruwa on 28/03, three at Kandalama on 29/03, one at Uda Walawe on 04/04 and one at Yala on 05/04.

17. Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus

One at Yala on 05/04.

18. Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus

Common. Seen at paddies between Colombo and Anuradhapura on 26/03, between Anuradhapura and Ritigala on 27/03, up to 30 at Kandalama on 28/03, 50 at Yala on 05/04 and six at Bundala on 06/04.

19. Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

30 at Yala on 05/04 and 10 at Bundala on 06/04.

20. Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica

Three at a wetland between Anuradhapura and Ritigala on 27/03 and 80, including several broods of duckilings, at Yala on 05/04.

21. Garganey Anas querquedula

Eight in flight at Bundala on 06/04.

22. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus

Common in lowland areas. Seen between Colombo and Anuradhapura on 26/03, at Anuradhapura, up to 20 at Kandalama, and at Yala and Bundala.

23. *White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster

One subadult at Yala on 05/04 and an adult at Bundala on 06/04.

24. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela spilogaster

Ones or twos seen at Ella, Sinharaja and Yala.

25. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus

One female at Yala on 05/04 was seen hunting over the dry ground outside the park entrance.

26. Shikra Accipiter badius

One at Anuradhapura on 27/03 and one at Yala on 05/04.

27. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis

Excellent views of an adult hunting low over the forest at Ritigala on 27/03.

28. *Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii

An adult seen from Dambulla cave temples on 29/03.

29. Changeable Hawk Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus ceylanensis

Two seen perched at Yala on 05/04.

30. Peregrine Falco peregrinus

One at Kandalama on 28/03 and two of the peregrinator subspecies ("Shaheen") at Sigiriya on 28/03.

31. [Sri Lanka Spurfowl Galloperdix bicalcarata E]

Heard only at Kudawa, Sinharaja on 04/04. Always too distant and did not seem to respond well to tape.

32. *Sri Lanka Junglefowl Gallus lafayettei E

One male seen at Kandalama on 28/03 with a few others heard calling. Then one at Horton Plains on 31/03, up to three seen at Sinharaja, 12 at Yala on 05/04 where the jeep enabled very good views, and three at Bundala on 06/04.

33. Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus

Eight at Uda Walawe on 04/04 and 80 at Yala on 05/04.

34. Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator leggei

Two at Kandalama on 28/03 and three at Yala on 05/04.

35. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus

One at Kandalama on 28/03, two in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03, two at Sinharaja on 03/04 and two at Yala on 05/04.

36. Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

One at Bundala on 06/04 was the only sighting.

37. Purple Gallinule Porphyrio porphyrio

Two seen at wetlands between Kandalama and Polonnaruwa on 28/03 and two at Bundala on 06/04.

38. Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus

Seen at several wetland areas, including two at Anuradhapura, one at Polonnaruwa on 28/03, 10 between Tissa and Yala on 04/04, 30 at Yala on 05/04, two at Bundala on 06/04 and three at Hambantota on 07/04.

39. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus ceylonensis

A few at Kandalama, 200 at Yala on 05/04, 40 at Bundala on 06/04 and 400 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

40. Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus

Two at Yala on 05/04 were seen in the road at 2130 in car headlights.

41. *Great Stone Plover Esacus recurvirostris

12 at Yala on 05/04, two at Bundala on 06/04 and two between Tissa and Yala on 06/04.

42. Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus

One at Uda Walawe on 04/04 and 10 at Yala on 05/04.

43. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus

Small numbers seen at several sites, including Anuradhapura, Kandalama and Yala.

44. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva

Eight at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

45. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola

Four at Bundala on 06/04 and 10 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

46. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

Two at Kandalama on 28/03 and one there on 29/03, three between Tissa and Yala on 04/04.

47. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus seebohmi

Two at Kandalama on 29/03, two between Tissa and Yala on 04/04, six at Yala on 05/04, 15 at Bundala on 06/04 and 30 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

48. *Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus

Four between Tissa and Yala on 04/04, 30 at Yala on 05/04, 20 at Bundala on 06/04, 30 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04. Smaller numbers than expected, and no sign of any Greater Sand Plovers.

49. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa limosa

One at Yala on 05/04.

50. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus

One at Yala on 05/04.

51. Redshank Tringa totanus

A few at Yala on 05/04, 15 at Bundala on 06/04 and 50 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

52. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis

Up to three seen daily at Kandalama, 20 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

53. Greenshank Tringa nebularia

One at Kandalama on 28/03, one between Tissa and Yala on 04/04, three at Bundala on 06/04 and 40 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

54. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

One at Pinnawela on 30/03, one at Horton Plains on 31/03 and one at Yala on 05/04.

55. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

Three at Kandalama on 29/03 and three at Yala on 05/04.

56. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

Three at Kandalama on 28/03, two at Kandalama on 29/03, three at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03, four at Pinnawela on 30/03, 10 at Yala on 05/04 and six at Bundala on 06/04.

57. Turnstone Arenaria interpres

One at Yala on 05/04 and three at Bundala on 06/04.

58. *Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura

Four at Kandalama on 29/03 and one at Yala on 05/04.

59. Little Stint Calidris minuta

30 between Tissa and Yala on 04/04, 100 at Yala on 05/04, an impressive 1500 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04 and 80 at Bundala on 06/04.

60. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

One between Tissa and Yala on 04/04, 20 at Yala on 05/04, about 500 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04 and 50 at Bundala on 06/04.

61. Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus

Three at Yala on 05/04, three at Bundala on 06/04 and four at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

62. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida

Common at most lowland wetland areas. Most notable counts were 30 at Aukana on 26/03, 60 at Kandalama on 28/03, several at Yala on 05/04 and about 200 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

63. White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucoptera

100 at Yala on 05/04, 15 at Bundala on 06/04 and about 400 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

64. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica

One at Anuradhapura on 27/03, six at Kandalama on 27/03, one at Kandalama on 28/03, eight at Yala on 05/04 and six at Bundala on 06/04.

65. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia

Two at Bundala on 06/04 and two at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota the same day.

66. Little Tern Sterna albifrons

10 at Yala on 05/04, six at Bundala on 06/04 and up to 400 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

67. Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii velox

30 at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

68. Lesser Crested Tern Sterna bengalensis

Two at Karagan Lewaya, Hambantota on 06/04.

69. Rock Dove Columba livia

Feral birds seen daily.

70. *Sri Lanka Woodpigeon Columba torringtoni E

Two along the main track at Sinharaja on 02/04 and one there the next day.

71. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis ceylonensis

Common throughout.

72. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica robinsoni

One at Hakgala Botanical Gardens on 01/04 and one heard calling at Sinharaja on 02/04.

73. *Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicincta leggei

One at Kandalama on 29/03, 30 at Yala on 05/04 and three at Bundala on 06/04.

74. *Pompadour Green Pigeon Treron pompadora pompadora

Six at Ella on 01/04.

75. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea

One at Aukana on 26/03 and then seen daily at Sinharaja with 12 there on 03/04.

76. *Sri Lanka Hanging-parrot Loriculus beryllinus E

One at Ella on 01/04, one at Sinharaja on 02/04 and five at Sinharaja on 03/04. Two seen on separate occasions hanging upside-down in palm tree!

77. Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria

Only seen at Kandalama, where up to three were seen daily.

78. Ring-necked Parakeet Psittacula krameri

Common in many lowland areas, but not seen at Sinharaja or in some of the other highland areas.

79. *Layard's Parakeet Psittacula calthorpae E

About 10 seen at Sinharaja on both 02/04 and 03/04.

80. *Chestnut-winged Cuckoo Clamator coromandus

One was seen beside the road near Dickwella on 06/04.

81. *Pied Cuckoo Oxylophus jacobinus

Two seen beside the road in Tissa village on 06/04.

82. Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus

One at Kandalama on 28/03.

83. Koel Eudynamys scolopacea

Seen or heard at Colombo, Kandalama, Victoria Park and Yala.

84. *Blue-faced Malkoha Rhopodytes viridirostris

Three seen at Yala on 05/04.

85. *Red-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus pyrrhocephalus E

Three at Sinharaja on 02/04 with a large mixed-species feeding flock.

86. *Green-billed Coucal Centropus chlororhynchus E

Two in the Kudawa area at Sinharaja on 04/04. One was seen well having successfully responded to tape and another was calling nearby.

87. Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis

Small numbers at several sites: noted at Colombo, Kandalama, Pinnawela, Ella, Sinharaja and Yala.

88. *Sri Lanka Frogmouth Batrachostomus moniliger

One seen at Sinharaja on 03/04 responded to tape and viewed very well in torchlight, 1900-1920. It was alongside the main track, about 100m in from the entrance barrier. Another was apparently calling the same evening by the information centre, although none could be found around Martin's bungalow.

89. Nightjar sp

One was flushed from the entrance track at Yala at 0530 on 05/04 and four were seen between Tissa and Yala Safari beach that evening. Although these probably included both Indian and Jerdon's I unfortunately could not be completely sure of the identification of any of them!

90. Indian Swiftlet Collocalia unicolor

Four at Aukana on 26/03, 15 at Horton Plains on 31/03, 30 at Hakgala Botanical Gardens on 01/04 and 20 at Sinharaja on 02/04.

91. *Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus gigantea

One seen from the information centre at Sinharaja on 03/04.

92. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus batasiensis

15 between Colombo and Anuradhapura on 26/03, several at Anuradhapura on 27/03 and 10 at Kandalama on 28/03.

93. House Swift Apus affinis

Seen at Anuradhapura and Kandalama where there were 200 on 28/03. Also quite common in Kandy.

94. Crested Tree Swift Hemiprocne longipennis

30 at Anuradhapura on 27/03, five at Sigiriya on 28/03, two at Sinharaja on 03/04, 10 between Tissa and Yala on 04/04 and eight at Yala on 05/04.

95. *Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus fasciatus

Two males seen at Sinharaja on 03/04.

96. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

Two seen between Anuradhapura and Ritigala on 27/03 and three at Bundala on 06/04.

97. Kingfisher Alcedo atthis

Singles at Kandalama and the lake in Kandy, with six at Yala on 05/04.

98. Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis

One at Yala on 05/04

99. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

Common throughout, the largest count recorded being 50 at Yala on 05/04.

100. *Black-capped Kingfisher Halcyon pileata

One of this attractive rarity (a few records in Sri Lanka in recent winters) was found at Yala on 05/04.

101. Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis ceylonicus

Two between Colombo and Anuradhapura on 26/03, a few at Kandalama and 100 at Yala on 05/04.

102. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus

10 at Anuradhapura on 27/03 was the only sighting.

103. *Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti

Six perched on wires beside road between Welimada and Ella on 01/04, one at Yala on 05/04.

104. Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis

Five between Colombo and Anuradhapura on 26/03, six at Anuradhapura on 27/03 and one at Yala on 05/04.

105. Hoopoe Upupa epops

Two at Yala on 05/04.

106. *Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill Tockus gingalensis E

One seen briefly at Anuradhapura on 27/03 and one male at Sinharaja on 03/04.

107. *Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus

A pair at Uda Walawe on 04/04 gave excellent views as they perched in a dead tree at the park edge. One at Yala on 05/04.

108. Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica

Common, although not in the highlands. Five between Colombo and Anuradhapura on 26/03, 10 at Anuradhapura on 27/03, 12 at Kandalama on 29/03, six at Ella on 01/04 and two at Yala on 05/04.

109. *Yellow-fronted Barbet Megalaima flavifrons E

Only seen at Sinharaja where there were up to three daily between 02/04 and 03/04.

110. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala

Two at Anuradhapura on 27/03 and three at Ella on 01/04.

111. Lesser Yellow-naped Woodpecker Picus chlorolophus wellsi

Two at Sinharaja on 02/04 and 03/04.

112. Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense psarodes

One at Sinharaja on 03/04 and one there on 04/04 were of the "Red-backed" subspecies.

113. *Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura

This fantastic bird proved to be fairly common and often gave incredible views. After one at dusk in Victoria Park 30/03, two were seen at Ella on 01/04, one between Tissa and Yala on 04/04, one at Kudawa, Sinharaja on 04/04 and one at Yala on 05/04.

114. Rufous-winged Bushlark Mirafra assamica

One at Kandalama on 29/03 and 10 at Yala on 05/04.

115. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula

Four at Kandalama on 28/03 and one at Yala on 05/04.

116. Ashy-crowned Finch Lark Eremopterix grisea

Four at Bundala on 06/04.

117. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica gutteralis

20 at Anuradhapura on 27/03, one at Kandalama on 28/03, four at Horton Plains on 31/03, 100 at Uda Walawe on 04/04 and several at Yala on 05/04.

118. *Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica domicola

Six at Horton Plains on 31/03.

119. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica hyperythra

Up to 40 at Kandalama on 29/03, 30 at Uda Walawe on 04/04 and a few at Yala on 05/04. Those seen at Uda Walawe did not have the fully red underparts of the hyperythra subspecies.

120. *Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus

Three at Kandalama on 28/03, two at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03 and three at Yala on 05/04.

121. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

Six at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03, five at Horton Plains on 31/03 and two at Hakgala Botanical Gardens on 01/04.

122. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus

Two at Anuradhapura on 27/03, one at Kandalama on 28/03, 15 at Horton Plains on 31/03 and two at Bundala on 06/04.

123. Large Cuckoo Shrike Coracina macei layardi

Two at Ella on 01/04.

124. Black-headed Cuckoo Shrike Coracina melanoptera

One at Kandalama on 28/03 and three at Hakgala Botanical Gardens on 01/04.

125. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus

One at Kandalama on 29/03.

126. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus

Two at Horton Plains on 31/03, one at Sinharaja on 02/04 and five at Sinharaja on 03/04.

127. Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike Hemipus picatus leggei

Four at Sinharaja on 04/04.

128. Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus affinis

Ones or twos seen at Kandalama, Anuradhapura, Uda Walawe and Yala.

129. *Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus melanicterus

This endemic subspecies, or species according to several sources, was seen at Ritigala (one on 27/03) and Sinharaja (three on 02/04 and one on 03/04).

130. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer cafer

Common throughout.

131. *Yellow-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus penicillatus E

Two in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03, 20 at Horton Plains on 31/03 and four at Hakgala Botanical Gardens on 01/04.

132. *White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus luteolus insulae

Seen daily at Kandalama with up to 30. Also two at Yala on 05/04.

133. Yellow-browed Bulbul Hypsipetes indicus

Up to six seen daily at Sinharaja.

134. Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus humii

One at Aukana on 26/03, eight at Hakgala Botanical Gardens on 01/04 and several at Sinharaja on both 02/04 and 03/04.

135. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia

Two at Kandalama on 28/03 and 29/03, three at Yala on 05/04.

136. *Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis

A pair at Ella on 01/04.

137. *Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons

One male at Sinharaja on 03/04.

138. Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus

One daily at Kandalama, three in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03, one at Sinharaja on 02/04 and two at Yala on 05/04.

139. *Indian Blue Robin Erithacus brunneus

Two males seen in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03 (one along the river, the other a very confiding bird near the compost heap) and a female at Sinharaja on 03/04.

140. Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis

Common and widespread.

141. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus

One at Kandalama on 28/03 and one at Yala on 05/04.

142. Pied Stonechat Saxicola caprata atrata

Two at the Tea Factory Hotel, Nuwara Eliya on 31/03 and 20 at Horton Plains on 31/03.

143. Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata leucoptera

Four at Anuradhapura on 27/03, eight at Kandalama on 28/03 and one at Ella on 01/04. Very common in the dry zone with at least 200 at Yala on 05/04.

144. *Pied Thrush Zoothera wardii

11 (eight males and three females) at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03. Excellent views of nine along the river with two others by the compost heap.

145. *Spot-winged Thrush Zoothera spiloptera

Sinharaja on 03/03.

146. Scaly Thrush Zoothera dauma imbricata

Three were heard at Sinharaja on 02/04 and two were seen there on 03/04. One was flushed from the stream beside main track, and seen briefly in undergrowth. The other gave stunning views as it worked through the leaf litter on one of the minor tracks near the research centre.

147. Blackbird Turdus merula kinnisii

One male at the Arrenga Pool near Horton Plains on 31/03. Bill bright orange-red, very impressive!

148. *Brown-capped Babbler Pellorneum fuscocapillum E

Two at Ritigala on 27/03 and two at Sinharaja on 03/04. Both pairs fed unobtrusively in the undergrowth.

149. *Indian Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus horsfieldii melanurus

One at Horton Plains on 31/03, one at Hakgala Botanical Gardens on 01/04, four at Sinharaja on 02/04 and two at Sinharaja on 03/04.

150. Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra phillipsi

One at Kandalama on 28/03.

151. Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopocichla atriceps siccata

One at Kandalama on 29/03, one at Horton Plains on 31/03, three at Sinharaja on 02/04 and eight there the following day.

152. *Orange-billed Babbler Turdoides rufescens E

Common at Sinharaja with 30 seen there on 02/04 and 25 on 03/04.

153. Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis taprobanus

Fairly common in lowland areas including 30 at Anuradhapura on 27/03, six at Kandalama on 28/03 and 70 at Yala on 05/04.

154. *Ashy-headed Laughing-thrush Garrulax cinereifrons E

12 in a mixed-species feeding flock at Sinharaja on 02/04.

155. Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum

Two at Horton Plains on 31/03.

156. *Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris

One at the research centre at Sinharaja on 02/04.

157. Green Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides nitidus

One at the Arrenga Pool near Horton Plains on 31/03 was the only one seen. A fairly dull individual, presumably through feather wear by late winter.

158. Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis omalura

Common at Horton Plains with 20 seen on 31/03.

159. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata insularis

One at Polonnaruwa on 28/03 and two at Yala on 05/04.

160. Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis brevicauda

One at the Tea Factory Hotel, Nuwara Eliya on 31/03.

161. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius

Quite common, with up to four at Kandalama, two at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya, three at Horton Plains and one at Ella on 01/04. Those at Kandalama were of the nominate subspecies, whilst the others were probably fernandonis.

162. *Kashmir Flycatcher Ficedula subrubra

Excellent views of a male in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03.

163. Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis

One at the Arrenga Pool, Horton Plains on 31/03.

164. *Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui

Singles at Sinharaja on 02/04 and 04/04.

165. *Dull-blue Flycatcher Muscicapa sordida E

Four at Horton Plains on 31/03 and three at Hakgala Botanical Gardens on 01/04.

166. *Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea ceylonensis

One female at Sinharaja on 03/04.

167. Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi

Up to two at Kandalama, two at Sinharaja on 02/04 and two there also on 03/04, including one long-tailed male.

168. White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola

One at Kandalama on 28/03 and one at Yala on 05/04.

169. Great Tit Parus major

A few seen at Horton Plains and other sites in the hill country.

170. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis

Three at Horton Plains on 31/03.

171. Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile zeylonicum

One at Kandalama on 28/03 and eight at Ella on 01/04.

172. *Legge's Flowerpecker Dicaeum vincens E

Three at Sinharaja on 03/04.

173. Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos ceylonense

Small numbers seen at Kandalama, Horton Plains, Ella, Sinharaja and Yala.

174. Purple-rumped Sunbird Nectarinia zeylonica zeylonica

Up to 10 at Kandalama, four at Ella on 01/04, five at Sinharaja on 03/04 and also recorded from Yala on 05/04.

175. Loten's Sunbird Nectarinia lotenia lotenia

One singing male at Kandalama on 28/03 was surprisingly the only one recorded.

176. Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica

10 at Anuradhapura on 27/03, six at Kandalama on 28/03, five at Ella on 01/04 and also recorded from Yala on 05/04.

177. Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosa

One at Kandalama on 27/03 and two there the following day were the only sightings.

178. *Sri Lanka White-eye Zosterops ceylonensis E

Eight very confiding and noisy birds seen in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya on 30/03. 30 at Horton Plains on 31/03, 12 at Hakgala Botanical Gardens on 01/04 and eight at Ella on 01/04. Not recorded at Sinharaja.

179. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata

One at Ella on 01/04

180. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata

Six at Ella on 01/04, eight at Yala on 05/04 and two between Tissa and Yala on 06/04.

181. Munia sp Lonchura sp

Two seen at Horton Plains on 31/03, alongside river between Bakers Falls and the park entrance, were possibly Black-throated but were only seen clearly in flight and may have been Scaly-breasted.

182. House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Not common, but seen in many towns and villages throughout.

183. *White-faced Starling Sturnus senex E

Four at Sinharaja on 02/04.

184. Rose-coloured Starling Sturnus roseus

25 at Yala on 05/04 and four between Tissa and Yala on 06/04.

185. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis melanosturnus

Common at most sites, although not seen at Sinharaja. Highest count recorded was of 100 at Kandalama.

186. *Sri Lanka Myna Gracula ptilogenys E

Eight at Sinharaja on 03/04. Ones and twos were seen quite frequently here, although usually only in flight.

187. Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus ceylonensis

Up to six at Kandalama, two at Ella on 01/04 and six at Yala on 05/04.

188. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus minor

Four at Anuradhapura on 27/03 and one at Kandalama on 27/03.

189. White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens

Two seen between Colombo and Anuradhapura on 26/03 and up to five at Sinharaja including a pair feeding young in nest at Martin's Bungalow.

190. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus lophorinus

Two of the "Crested Drongo" race were seen at Sinharaja on 02/04.

191. Ashy Wood Swallow Artamus fuscus

Six at Anuradhapura on 27/03.

192. *Sri Lanka Blue Magpie Urocissa ornata E

Three at Sinharaja on 03/04. This was a pair along the main track, one of the adults seen feeding a fledged young bird.

193. House Crow Corvus splendens

Very common in inhabited areas, less so in more remote and central areas.

194. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos

Common everywhere, in lower numbers than House Crow but more widespread, and still including counts of up to 100.

• 190 confirmed species
• 48 ticks
• 19 (out of 23) endemic species. Missed Chestnut-backed Owlet, Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush, Sri Lanka Bush Warbler and only heard Sri Lanka Spurfowl. Of the other three commonly split subspecies, saw Black-crested Bulbul but missed Sri Lanka Small Barbet and Black-throated Munia.