Gujarat, India

Introduction

This is a report on a short birding and sightseeing trip to Gujarat in western India. The plan was to visit the Wild Ass Sanctuary in the Little Rann of Kutch, the Gir Lion Sanctuary at Sasan Gir and Velavadar National Park. I was the only birder, joined for some of the trip by my wife Nisha and our friend Reshma. The birding was very enjoyable, although the mammal watching was even more impressive: I managed to see one new species of bird but had four large mammal lifers! A photo gallery is also available.

I arranged a car and the accommodation through Mohit Aggarwal of Asian Adventures.

Itinerary

Systematic List

Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus Up to 30 Little Rann of Kutch, also Gir and Velavadar.

Common Quail Coturnix coturnix Four Little Rann of Kutch.

Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus Little Rann of Kutch, Gondal and Gir.

Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanica Four outside Little Rann of Kutch.

Greylag Goose Anser anser 23 at the creek, Little Rann of Kutch.

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Two Little Rann of Kutch and eight Velavadar.

Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Three outside Little Rann of Kutch.

Gadwall Anas strepera At least 400 seen at Little Rann of Kutch.

Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope At least 500 seen at Little Rann of Kutch.

Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha Two outside Little Rann of Kutch.

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata The commonest duck with 2200 at the creek near Little Rann of Kutch, 60 also at Velavadar.

Northern Pintail Anas acuta At least 300 at the creek near Little Rann of Kutch, with one at Velavadar.

Garganey Anas querquedula 40 by the dam, Little Rann of Kutch.

Common Teal Anas crecca Up to 70 Little Rann of Kutch and 100 at Velavadar.

Common Pochard Aythya ferina 45 seen at Little Rann of Kutch.

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Three at Velavadar.

Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense One at Gir.

Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala Heard at Gondal, Gir and Palitana.

Common Hoopoe Upupa epops Noted at each site in small numbers.

Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis About 20 between Ahmedabad and Little Rann of Kutch but thereafter just one Little Rann of Kutch and six Velavadar.

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis One or two daily Little Rann of Kutch.

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Common in small numbers.

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Two, Little Rann of Kutch.

Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis Common with at least 150 estimated on one day at Little Rann of Kutch.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus Two on two occasions, Little Rann of Kutch.

Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea One or two seen regularly, with eight at Gir.

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis One or two, Little Rann of Kutch, Gir and Palitana.

Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Common although never large numbers.

Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala Ten at Gir.

House Swift Apus affinis Small numbers at various sites.

Spotted Owlet Athene brama Two outside Little Rann of Kutch with one calling at Camp Zainabad.

Rock Pigeon Columba livia Common.

Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Common, with 150 estimated one day at Little Rann of Kutch.

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Three at Gir.

Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica Up to three daily, Little Rann of Kutch.

Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Common.

Indian Bustard Ardeotis nigriceps A surprise find was a bird in the grasslands at Velavadar. It gave fantastic views at relatively close range.

MacQueen's Bustard Chlamydotis macqueeni Daily sightings at Little Rann of Kutch. Up to four were regular near the lake and a further 11 seen in a different area one day, meaning at least 15 different birds seen.

Sarus Crane Grus antigone Two at Velavadar.

Common Crane Grus grus Common at Little Rann of Kutch and Velavadar, with up to 400 at each site.

Brown Crake Amaurornis akool One at Gir

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus One at Little Rann of Kutch.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 10 Little Rann of Kutch.

Common Coot Fulica atra Common Little Rann of Kutch and Velavadar.

Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus Seen frequently at Little Rann of Kutch, especially between 0900 and 1000 when coming to drink. 300 were seen near the creek, with a further 50 in Little Rann of Kutch later the same day.

Painted Sandgrouse Pterocles indicus Three in flight at Gir.

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago One Little Rann of Kutch.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa 3 Little Rann of Kutch and 12 Velavadar .

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata One Little Rann of Kutch, one Somnath and three Velavadar.

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus Up to eight Little Rann of Kutch and four Velavadar.

Common Redshank Tringa totanus Up to 50 Little Rann of Kutch and two Velavadar.

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Up to 100 Little Rann of Kutch and six Velavadar.

Greenshank Tringa nebularia Up to six Little Rann of Kutch.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus One or two at several locations.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 40 Little Rann of Kutch was the only record.

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos One Little Rann of Kutch and two Somnath.

Little Stint Calidris minuta Up to 80 Little Rann of Kutch and 40 Velavadar.

Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii Six Little Rann of Kutch and three Velavadar.

Dunlin Calidris alpina Up to 20 Little Rann of Kutch.

Ruff Philomachus pugnax A maximum of 1500 Little Rann of Kutch and 80 Velavadar.

Eurasian Thick-knee Burhinus oedicnemus Heard calling at Camp Zainabad and Gir.

Great Thick-knee Esacus recurvirostris One at the creek outside Little Rann of Kutch.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Common in small numbers.

Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta Up to 300 Little Rann of Kutch and 10 Velavadar.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius One Little Rann of Kutch was the only sighting.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Up to 60 Little Rann of Kutch.

Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus Six, Little Rann of Kutch

Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus A single in flight over Little Rann of Kutch, with three nearby outside the village of Padri.

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Common.

Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor Excellent views were had of four birds feeding together (one was seen to catch a lizard) in the Little Rann of Kutch.

Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans One first-winter at Somnath.

Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus Two Little Rann of Kutch and one Velavadar.

Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Up to 20 Little Rann of Kutch and two Velavadar.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia Two seen in flight at the creek outside Little Rann of Kutch.

River Tern Sterna aurantia Five at the creek outside Little Rann of Kutch.

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus 20 at the creek outside Little Rann of Kutch and five Velavadar.

Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus Four seen at Gir were the only sightings.

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus Fairly common with up to four daily Little Rann of Kutch and 15 Velavadar.

Black Kite Milvus migrans Seen at Little Rann of Kutch and Velavadar but not common, peak count was 10 en-route between Ahmedabad and Camp Zainabad.

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Four en-route between Ahmedabad and Camp Zainabad.

Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus One over Camp Zainabad, two at Gir and one Velavadar.

Eurasian Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Up to seven Little Rann of Kutch and 20 Velavadar.

Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus One ringtail seen over the Velavadar grasslands.

Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Up to four Little Rann of Kutch and then an estimated 200 at the Velavadar roost. Most were ringtails although several males were seen. One or two were seen throughout the day there, although most arrived in the late afternoon.

Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus Just one adult male Little Rann of Kutch and then a phenomonal 800 estimated at the Velavadar roost. Up to ten had been seen throughout the day there, with most arriving in the late afternoon. At one stage an incredible 500 harriers were in the air together!

Shikra Accipiter badius Up to three Little Rann of Kutch and eight Velavadar.

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus One dark male, presumably of the Himalayan subspecies, was seen at Little Rann of Kutch.

White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa One at Little Rann of Kutch, one Somnath and two Gir.

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus Two Little Rann of Kutch and two Velavadar.

Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga Two different individuals at the creek near Little Rann of Kutch and four at Velavadar, which include one fulvescens.

Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax One very pale individual near the creek outside Little Rann of Kutch.

Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca A juvenile at Velavadar.

Bonelli's Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus One juvenile seen at Velavadar.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Two at Little Rann of Kutch and six at Velavadar.

Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo A juvenile seen at Shatranjaya Hill, Palitana.

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Two Little Rann of Kutch, three Velavadar.

Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger Small numbers seen each day at most sites.

Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis One at Velavadar was the only sighting.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta Up to 25 Little Rann of Kutch.

Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis Two at Little Rann of Kutch (one dark morph, one white morph) and single dark morphs at Somnath and Velavadar.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Up to 10 Little Rann of Kutch and eight Velavadar.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Two Little Rann of Kutch.

Great Egret Casmerodius albus Up to 40 Little Rann of Kutch and eight Velavadar.

Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia 40 at Little Rann of Kutch, one at Gir.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Common.

Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Small numbers seen regularly.

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Up to 300 Little Rann of Kutch and 100 Velavadar.

Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor Up to 300 Little Rann of Kutch.

Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus En-route between Ahmedabad and Camp Zainabad, plus six at Velavadar.

Black Ibis Pseudibis papillosa Four Little Rann of Kutch and common at Gir with 25 there.

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia Up to 40 Little Rann of Kutch and 30 Velavadar.

Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus Up to 800 Little Rann of Kutch, a single at Somnath and 300 Velavadar.

Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus Seven at the lake in Little Rann of Kutch and one at Velavadar.

Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala A few sightings including 30 Velavadar.

White Stork Ciconia ciconia Six Little Rann of Kutch and four Velavadar.

Black Stork Ciconia nigra Two Little Rann of Kutch.

Rufous-tailed Shrike Lanius isabellinus By far the commonest shrike with up to 30 Little Rann of Kutch and four Velavadar. Most, if not all, appeared to be arenarius.

Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus Up to six Little Rann of Kutch and one at Gir.

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach Singles at Little Rann of Kutch, Gir and Velavadar.

Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis Only seen at Little Rann of Kutch with up to five there.

Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda Common at Gir.

House Crow Corvus splendens Common.

Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Only seen at Gir where fairly common.

White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola Five seen at Gir.

Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Common.

Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Six at Gir.

Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius One Little Rann of Kutch.

Red-throated Flycatcher Ficedula parva Eight at Gir were the only sightings.

Taiga Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla Two first-winters in the grounds of the Orchard Palace, Gondal.

Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae Four at Gir.

Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Two at Camp Zainabad.

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica Two at Little Rann of Kutch were the only ones.

Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis Two Little Rann of Kutch and six Gir.

Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata Common Little Rann of Kutch and Gir.

Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Two Little Rann of Kutch and six Gir.

Stoliczka's Bushchat Saxicola macrorhyncha One female, or immature male, was seen very well between Camp Zainabad and the Little Rann of Kutch. A pale bird, it's structure and behaviour was more wheatear-like than Stonechat. On several occasions on the ground it gave the "puff and roll" display, although without obvious provocation. The breast and belly feathers were puffed out, and the breast pushed forward, and the bird then swayed from side to side three or four times.

Siberian Stonechat Saxicola torquata Singles in Little Rann of Kutch on three occasions and six at Velavadar.

Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata Up to six Little Rann of Kutch and one Velavadar.

Variable Wheatear Oenanthe picata Up to eight Little Rann of Kutch, especially on the outskirts of the Rann.

Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Up to three Little Rann of Kutch.

Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti Common at Little Rann of Kutch with a maximum of 20 there, two also at Velavadar.

Brown Rock-chat Cercomela fusca A single on a building at Padri near Little Rann of Kutch.

Brahminy Starling Sturnus pagodarum Common near Little Rann of Kutch.

Rosy Starling Sturnus roseus Quite common, although not in the very large flocks expected. Most was 120 at Little Rann of Kutch and up to 100 Velavadar.

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Common.

Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus Fairly commonr.

Great Tit Parus major Six at Gir.

Sand Martin Riparia riparia As many as 30 were present one day at Little Rann of Kutch. Those birds seen well enough appeared to all have distinct breast-bands and contrasting white sides to the head, and no convincing Pale Martins were seen.

Plain Martin Riparia paludicola At least two but probably a few more at Little Rann of Kutch.

Dusky Crag Martin Hirundo concolor Two at Little Rann of Kutch and eight at Palitana.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Common, with up to 1000 towards dusk at Little Rann of Kutch and 50 Velavadar.

Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii One en-route between Ahmedabad and Camp Zainabad.

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica One Little Rann of Kutch.

White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis Up to 20 Little Rann of Kutch and eight Velavadar.

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Common.

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata A few at Little Rann of Kutch, Gir and Velavadar.

Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis One Little Rann of Kutch.

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Four Little Rann of Kutch.

Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Six at Gir.

Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon At least four were in the reedbeds bordering the creek outside the Little Rann of Kutch. This is believed to be the first record for the area.

Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Two Little Rann of Kutch and three Velavadar.

Booted Warbler Hippolais caligata One seen in low bushes on the edge of the Little Rann of Kutch.

Sykes's Warbler Hippolais rama Singles seen on three occasions near Camp Zainabad and the Little Rann of Kutch.

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Six at Gir.

Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita One at Little Rann of Kutch and one at Velavadar.

Sulphur-bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus One seen on Shatranjaya Hill, Palitana.

Hume's Warbler Phylloscopus humei Heard only at Little Rann of Kutch.

Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus Indeed common, especially Little Rann of Kutch where up to 60 were seen daily.

Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi A single Little Rann of Kutch, also seen at Somnath and Gir.

Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus Fairly common at Little Rann of Kutch and Gir.

Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Common at Little Rann of Kutch (up to 20) and Velavadar.

Hume's Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia althaea Two singles at Little Rann of Kutch.

Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis Up to two birds daily at Little Rann of Kutch.

Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark Eremopterix grisea Small numbers at most sites with up to 30 at Velavadar.

Rufous-tailed Lark Ammomanes phoenicurus Up to five Little Rann of Kutch and ten Velavadar.

Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata About 150 seen on one day in Little Rann of Kutch, and 30 at Velavadar.

Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla Very common at Little Rann of Kutch with large flocks often flying over. 4000 estimated there one day. 500 also at Velavadar.

Crested Lark Galerida cristata Up to 10 Little Rann of Kutch and two Velavadar.

Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula Up to six Little Rann of Kutch and six also Velavadar.

Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica Seen at Little Rann of Kutch and Gir.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus Few seen.

Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis Four at Little Rann of Kutch and 50 Gir.

White Wagtail Motacilla alba Just one en-route between Ahmedabad and Camp Zainabad.

Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola Only seen at Little Rann of Kutch with up to four there.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea One or two at Gondal, Somnath and Gir.

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus Only one seen, at Velavadar.

Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris Up to 12 at Little Rann of Kutch and two Velavadar.

Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis One at Velavadar.

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis One at Little Rann of Kutch and one at Gir.

Indian Silverbill Lonchura malabarica Fairly common throughout.

Grey-necked Bunting Emberiza buchanani Seven seen on the slopes of Shatranjaya Hill, Palitana.

Other Wildlife

Common Langur A few seen at Gir.

Sambar A few at Gir.

Spotted Deer Common at Gir.

Nilgai Few in the Little Rann of Kutch, Gir and Velavadar.

Blackbuck At least 800 at Velavadar.

Wild Boar Two at Gir and two at Velavadar.

Asiatic Wild Ass Up to 100 daily at Little Rann of Kutch.

Jackal Two at Gir.

Striped Hyena One at Velavadar.

Wolf One at Little Rann of Kutch and three at Velavadar.

Indian Fox One at Little Rann of Kutch.

Red Fox Two daily at Little Rann of Kutch.

Asiatic Lion One lioness at a recent kill of a cow at Gir stayed by the kill all day. Five lions had been seen by a group the afternoon before (plus a leopard).

Jungle Cat One seen en-route between Bhavnagar and Velavadar.

Ruddy Mongoose Gir.

Indian Hare One seen in the Little Rann of Kutch.

Five-striped Palm Squirrel Common.

Contacts